Kisumu and Tilapia

The journey to Kisumu from Kisii was an experience of sardines in a tin, but the occupants kept moving and changing( except me). Arriving at the matatu station early, tickets purchased.(KES 500 each), and seats selected. As the bus kept filling I was a little concerned for my bag that had been placed in the rear compartment. I had noticed staff securing a rope through the windows on both sides of the bus, obviously securing items on the roof, and thought no more about it. After a few stops I tried to check for my bag. Kijea came back with...'Its OK..on the roof." I kept a close eye on the rope making sure it did not grow slack as that meant..no more bag!!!

I had nothing to worry about as this is it all 'snug' on the roof.

This gives you an idea of how we were IN the bus....sometimes 4 adults and two babes in arms across my section of 3 seats. Everyone very friendly and orderly. When I sometimes noticed room to breathe, the tout on the door (not sure what was securing it to the side of the bus as it kept coming off the tracks) would be hailed down by a family going to town. OH MY, somehow they just fitted in , still trying to sit even though we had taken off again. 

The terrain changes once again as we leave the lush climate of the highland area to the plains close to Lake Victoria and Kisumu. The plains leading to the Lake are a vast  area for growing corn, sugar cane, millet and irrigated rice.  The rice paddies were in various stages of use, from fallow, preparation for planting, planting and rich green rice fields.

With the rain, comes the weeds and many corn fields contained workers tending them, a back breaking task in the hot sun, (suppose they are used to it.)

The expansion of a reliable road system is taking shape in Kenya. Shame it is still under construction. I'm told 5 years so far...To be noted. Maybe the engineers have never heard of the type of shoulders for roadways we have.

 It just drops away here, pity if you have to stop and try and park off the road.

Where the sealing has been completed in sections, there are no signs to mark the different levels between old and new......can be a difference of up to 300mm, requiring extreme caution on the part of the driver as hitting these bumps at speed is challenging to both vehicle and passengers.

a section to negotiate.

we had to pick our way through the road works. No lollypop people, speed signs  etc etc.

Here on a section a dump truck decided to stop, reverse and dump his load....as you would....

This being a major arterial route through the country, joining Tanzania and Uganda, there are huge container trucks negotiating these sections. A task, I bet they do not enjoy.

Arriving in Kisumu around lunchtime, Lake Victoria was our first stop.

Kijea negotiated an hour boat ride along the shore( maybe a Hippo may appear for us) to experience the lake and relax after a hot bus ride. The water was warm a little murky but calm.

Looking back to shore where the restaurants are.

 An Eco tourist resort, Kisumu Yacht Club, and houses with fabulous views including the official Presidential residence in Kisumu, all share the lake shore.

Back after ride I just had a little chuckle to myself as to the local CAR WASH...the lake...

everything from tuk tuk, motor bike, truck and cars, all share the spot by just driving into the lake shallows.

Never known for my balance, evidenced here as I disembark after our cruise on the lake.

Late lunch of Tilapia was ordered after our accommodation was organised. This is the fish of the area and known and desired all over Kenya. Freshwater fish and sweet. 

Our order of Dry Fry, Ugali, chips for me, kachambali,(forgot the chilli) with a few drinks KES1200...cheap.

Kijea and I shared this plate.

These Tilapia, slashed and cooked , ready to be chosen by customers in the restaurant, are then reheated and served.

On leaving the restaurant(through the kitchen) these were lined up ready for preparation.

I did not see a cool room or ice for cooling, so these fish must have magical powers of self preservation........

On our way back we visited the market area and the small masaai market. This little girl was fascinated  with my hair. My 'going grey gracefully' must have some charm!
I found some traditional pots for sale stacks up. I am reliably informed these were used to keep water cool.

A little out of focus .....

 

These Tilapia, fresh, being sold in the market at the roadside. They were divided according to size and were splashed continuously with water from a bowl. We had no way of carrying them back to Nakuru, however they were double the price here.

The journey back had us experience the major road contruction areas again. More comfortable this time as we were on an express matatu. cost KES800 each.

Tea picking at Kericho

An example of the levels while construction is underway. Not a good idea to travel at night as there are no reflective signs and you are at the mercy of the driver and his knowledge of the area.

Well, another of my 'bucket list' ticked off...........Lake Victoria. Kenya.

Kisii and Soapstone

 With a friend from Kisii it was too good an opportunity to pass up a visit to the heart of the soapstone industry of Kenya, known the world around.

 Travelling by matatu in the afternoon to meet with my friend in Kisii was another experience. I had been taken to the bus station in Nakuru so I knew exactly where the terminal was. Then introduced by my Kenyan name, Kwamboka, ( a Kisii tribal name) I was well treated by the station staff. Helps to have local assistance. The countryside changes as the kilometres rolled by. Tea growing at Kericho, maize, millet, then as we approached Kisii more tropical fruits, bananas, pineapples, paw paw, and I can go on. Evidently the only thing not grown in the area is a coconut. The houses here are made of bricks, utilising the local clay resources.

As you can see, there are many small farms in this area, due to the density of the population for the region. Lush at this time of year. 

Kisii is known as a bustling town and I found it to be. Looking one way

Then straight ahead, traffic, people, anything on the road. we walked up this street dodging the traffic etc.

This is a piki piki,  boda boda stand. Like a taxi stand. When the one closest to the right received a customer, they all moved the bikes sideways, in a very orderly fashion. This is about 6pm in the evening, Saturday.

Out-door dining 

These are stacked, traditional charcoal stoves, Jiko. The charcoal is added to this and a grate on top where the cooking pot is rested for cooking. The cooking pots are of aluminium with a rim and no handle as we know.

Then onto

Tabaka. the Soapstone village.

 We travelled from Kisii in a matatu to a village of Nyachenge, where we changed to a local taxi. After delivering a sick woman to the hospital in Tabaka, we continued onto the mining area of Ogeche.
Below is the track-come roadway we walked along.

This was on the track. The shavings from carving were being sieved and the larger pieces were being bagged for a major order. 

Then onto various sites where white, pink, yellow, grey and black soapstone are mined.

 Large blocks from the bottom of this pit are carried to the top on a slatted platform. Mainly barefooted and in the hot sun I imagine fitness is required and these were young guys suited to this task.

One of the many quarry sites

Near here, there was a large truck from Uganda loading large blocks of stone.( all by hand). At the destination, the stone was to be prepared into chalk writing sticks for school children.

At an area where men sit in the shade from the high sun and carve, the children were fascinated with me, maybe being one of few mzungus ever seen.

Down in the village, some carvers were hard at work, even though it was a public holiday for Madaraka Day...celebrating 50 years of independence for Kenya. Here, with a deft hand, welding the large knife, this guy was shaping heart shaped bowls.

Using a cross saw larger locks were divided neatly for boxes and other items that required straight sides.

  These two ladies, using wet/dry sandpaper, are finishing carved pieces to a smooth finish.

Here I am watching an egg, previously dyed with pigment, being decorated with lines. each worker has his own knife, like a pocket knife to carry out this process.

A room full of naturally finished items ready for the wholesale market.

This is the view from the road, walking down the hill in Tabaka. The land drops away from the road allowing for a wonderful vista of lush green hills.

After a hot busy morning walking and a little help from a mechanical  horse.....I made it to lunch.

Now you may think I planned this colour match!!!! no. just luck, no management involved.......

Now what do you have for lunch in a Tabaka hotel......being in Kisii territory, 'a wet fry'. I had a small idea what may arrive, goat meat, all chopped up with a clever, on a platter to share. The mugs contained a soup from the cooking process(there were 3 of us), it was delicious. The meat was slow cooked with onion, tomato and water. So tender and sweet. Served with ugali as an accompaniment and pity was taken on me and greens were ordered....I do not like ugali... Sukuma Wiki, the greens were shredded spinach with chopped onion and a little tomato and a little chopped parsley. Kachubali chopped tomato, onion, parsley and chilli. Yum Hot Stuff. Breathing fire. where is the drink.....

This is the ritual before and after the meal. (Shame no towel is provided) Here, after, and all the bones do not belong to me!!!

Being a local watering hole and a public holiday, local music was played to add to the atmosphere. This gentleman decided to strut his stuff in a Kisii way. Again, the only mzungu for miles but no-one worried me and I thoroughly enjoyed myself and the hospitality.

Following the long lunch, we travelled to a nearby village, Rongo, by piki piki. Here, after looking around we travelled back to Kisii by matatu. An aside on toilets...great to experience spending two small coins for the pleasure, at the Kisii matatu station.......continuously washed floors, pleasant staff and what a relief!!!!

A great day and one that I will never forget. 

Kaptembwa Nakuru Kenya

Having a group of health volunteers interested in the well being of fellow man motivated me to arrange a visit to the slum where I helped out in the past. Two girls from USA along with a Croatian medical nurse visited Gabriel's Learning Centre.

This is Tiger, the guard dog at the school. He would always come up to me quietly and touch my hand with his nose. He is very gentle and is always being chased away by others. I suppose I am the first to talk softly to him. He remembered me. ( no he does not have Rabies and is checked by the vet and vaccinated regularly as he is in proximity to the children and others)
The girls had arrived with suitcases full of donated clothes, Ivan was given some basic medical supplies to administer , and I had acquired a bag full of prescription glasses donated from Australia. Have you ever wondered what happened to those old prescription glasses you donate to an Optometrist???!!!! well they go to those in need. My optometrist would probably cringe at how they are distributed....Please try these on...the face gives it away...smiles...can see....a frown..no good...For those who want to read... give them a piece of news paper to see if its clear.....distance...is it clear.... some are overwhelmed by the exercise as witnessed by me with the nurses helping out villagers close to M.I.A.

At Gabriel's,  we accompanied the weekly routine of visiting families in the slum.

Setting the scene walking into Kaptembwa

This is where the families are checked up on and given food parcels and /or rent money. A kind word and visit to the house gives them hope that someone cares about them.

Edas....this lady I met last year briefly attending the embroidery class I conducted.
12 children and a husband that does not work, and extended family members takes her household to number 20.....Edas has moved from where I visited last year to another building. It has 3 rooms,, the main one being approx., 4.5m x 4.5m. All 20 sleep in the house!!! She earns about KES200 to KES300. It takes about KES500 to feed the family, rent is KES1500 per month. (at the moment the exchange rate is KES81 to the $AU. Edas was so excited that we visited and remembered me as well. She is 50yrs old.
Another family, 9 children, youngest 8 months, all different fathers. Mother leaves home at around 6 am leaving all the children to fend for themselves, while looking for work,returning at 6pm. The 3-4yr old looks after the young one. Not sure what the others got unto. Now with the intervention of Gabriel's, the older children are attending school and a baby sitter is being sort for day care. A difficult situation, but common here.

This is Emily and Darcy, part of our group. Here we can see some small businesses...selling charcoal for KES40 a tin and behind a local Takeaway ....beans or beans and maize. Hot with a cup of Kenyan tea. (served with hot sweet milk)From memoryKES 10-20.

Here we are walking through the local clothing market.

This cart is ready, for delivery. Maybe just hawking or for an order.
Missing is the beast of burden........a Man.

Back at Gabriel's we set up a temporary 'clinic', where Ivan interviewed members associated with the charity family and dispensed pain killers, anti acid, and malaria medication and cream for skin irritations.

Here is Ivan in his 'clinic'.   There were a few sad cases to help with. A lady who probably had secondary abdominal tumours, a young woman who carries 20 litre drums of water each day for the family and is suffering lower back pain extending down the legs......how can she give up this activity as she is the only one who can provide this essential item for the family....long term consequences for her health and wellbeing.

This is Emily with a small child that came to Gabriel's the day before we visited. Grossly malnourished, he was accompanied by a sister a little older. The new set of clothes were donated by Emily and her sister, also leaving a suitcase and large bag of numerous items size and kind for the needy. The child also presented with a skin irritation which will be treated. Long term this little boy and his sister,will have a brighter future, being cared for by the charity and maybe housed as an orphan when the new building complex is completed. He has no name as yet nor the background known, so research will be carried out.

On that note our visit concludes.