Kisii and Soapstone

 With a friend from Kisii it was too good an opportunity to pass up a visit to the heart of the soapstone industry of Kenya, known the world around.

 Travelling by matatu in the afternoon to meet with my friend in Kisii was another experience. I had been taken to the bus station in Nakuru so I knew exactly where the terminal was. Then introduced by my Kenyan name, Kwamboka, ( a Kisii tribal name) I was well treated by the station staff. Helps to have local assistance. The countryside changes as the kilometres rolled by. Tea growing at Kericho, maize, millet, then as we approached Kisii more tropical fruits, bananas, pineapples, paw paw, and I can go on. Evidently the only thing not grown in the area is a coconut. The houses here are made of bricks, utilising the local clay resources.

As you can see, there are many small farms in this area, due to the density of the population for the region. Lush at this time of year. 

Kisii is known as a bustling town and I found it to be. Looking one way

Then straight ahead, traffic, people, anything on the road. we walked up this street dodging the traffic etc.

This is a piki piki,  boda boda stand. Like a taxi stand. When the one closest to the right received a customer, they all moved the bikes sideways, in a very orderly fashion. This is about 6pm in the evening, Saturday.

Out-door dining 

These are stacked, traditional charcoal stoves, Jiko. The charcoal is added to this and a grate on top where the cooking pot is rested for cooking. The cooking pots are of aluminium with a rim and no handle as we know.

Then onto

Tabaka. the Soapstone village.

 We travelled from Kisii in a matatu to a village of Nyachenge, where we changed to a local taxi. After delivering a sick woman to the hospital in Tabaka, we continued onto the mining area of Ogeche.
Below is the track-come roadway we walked along.

This was on the track. The shavings from carving were being sieved and the larger pieces were being bagged for a major order. 

Then onto various sites where white, pink, yellow, grey and black soapstone are mined.

 Large blocks from the bottom of this pit are carried to the top on a slatted platform. Mainly barefooted and in the hot sun I imagine fitness is required and these were young guys suited to this task.

One of the many quarry sites

Near here, there was a large truck from Uganda loading large blocks of stone.( all by hand). At the destination, the stone was to be prepared into chalk writing sticks for school children.

At an area where men sit in the shade from the high sun and carve, the children were fascinated with me, maybe being one of few mzungus ever seen.

Down in the village, some carvers were hard at work, even though it was a public holiday for Madaraka Day...celebrating 50 years of independence for Kenya. Here, with a deft hand, welding the large knife, this guy was shaping heart shaped bowls.

Using a cross saw larger locks were divided neatly for boxes and other items that required straight sides.

  These two ladies, using wet/dry sandpaper, are finishing carved pieces to a smooth finish.

Here I am watching an egg, previously dyed with pigment, being decorated with lines. each worker has his own knife, like a pocket knife to carry out this process.

A room full of naturally finished items ready for the wholesale market.

This is the view from the road, walking down the hill in Tabaka. The land drops away from the road allowing for a wonderful vista of lush green hills.

After a hot busy morning walking and a little help from a mechanical  horse.....I made it to lunch.

Now you may think I planned this colour match!!!! no. just luck, no management involved.......

Now what do you have for lunch in a Tabaka hotel......being in Kisii territory, 'a wet fry'. I had a small idea what may arrive, goat meat, all chopped up with a clever, on a platter to share. The mugs contained a soup from the cooking process(there were 3 of us), it was delicious. The meat was slow cooked with onion, tomato and water. So tender and sweet. Served with ugali as an accompaniment and pity was taken on me and greens were ordered....I do not like ugali... Sukuma Wiki, the greens were shredded spinach with chopped onion and a little tomato and a little chopped parsley. Kachubali chopped tomato, onion, parsley and chilli. Yum Hot Stuff. Breathing fire. where is the drink.....

This is the ritual before and after the meal. (Shame no towel is provided) Here, after, and all the bones do not belong to me!!!

Being a local watering hole and a public holiday, local music was played to add to the atmosphere. This gentleman decided to strut his stuff in a Kisii way. Again, the only mzungu for miles but no-one worried me and I thoroughly enjoyed myself and the hospitality.

Following the long lunch, we travelled to a nearby village, Rongo, by piki piki. Here, after looking around we travelled back to Kisii by matatu. An aside on toilets...great to experience spending two small coins for the pleasure, at the Kisii matatu station.......continuously washed floors, pleasant staff and what a relief!!!!

A great day and one that I will never forget.