Thursday, 1 August 2013

A Coastal Excursion Part 2



Sorry about the delay in the posts but here I am again....

Our return to Mombasa by car ( with Mr Khan) allowed us to view the countryside without the rain.
Through the villages where life is frantic by the roadside.. the local markets, harvested piles of coconuts, stalls selling the new season fruits and vegetables.



Off shopping...note the small child tucked in between!!!

As we entered the area of Likoni near the ferry, the types of buildings became denser  by the roadway.
We slowed due to a waiting line for the ferry and this allowed me to study the shops offering services.


This is a Hair Dressing salon, with a cafe beside. 

These are the shops at the approach to the ferry.
A bit of chaos has been created with the development and construction of a weigh bridge for trucks. After jostling and creeping forward our line moved forward down the ramp.
This gives an idea of the steepness of the ramp. (who takes notice of No Photo signs) The cart was loaded with items of fresh fruit and vegetables from the market on the island(Mombasa is on an island) and returning south. The guys helping the cart owner are paid for their efforts...with hot and sticky weather and the roadway, they inched up the slope. Note in the background, the walkway for pedestrians reminded me of cattle yards. A different 'race' for those boarding and another for disembarking.
MOMBASA 
 Not taken at rush hour, this is the main intersection of Moi Ave., Digo Rd., and Nkrumah Rd. We stayed in this area proving very convenient.

More street scenes

During our first afternoon, Biashara St was our destination. By good authority this was the area to purchase Lesso, the highly colourful printed fabric lengths used as clothing. Following a tuk tuk ride we landed in the middle of a vibrant commercial touristy area. Narrow roadway little or no footpath to speak of, cars slowly edging their way through bikes, people, tuk tuks, carts ....anything.. no-one rushing, or getting excited at the crush, edging slowly down the 'street.'  Such a crush and many people everywhere in the scene I avoided bad looks by not taking photos in this area respecting the locals.
There were so many designs to choose from and shop keepers pleasantly welcomed us. I thoroughly enjoy areas like this where the locals go to shop.


A little walk back in history---Fort Jesus. A UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our tour of Fort Jesus started with us being met by a guide in the streets way before the Fort. I was a bit  sus about him but he proved to be worth the investment of KES2000 for a tour and knowledge of the site.
The fort was built as a fortification between 1593-1596 by the Portuguese who conquered Mombasa Island from the local clans.
One of the original structures on the outer wall, having been witness to many bloody battles for control of the important strategic position on the East African coast...Trade on the Indian Ocean.


Kijea and I in front of a typical Arab styled  door and surround., within the fort grounds

Some of the canons from the battlements. Both British and Portuguese canons are in the fort on display. 
Me climbing back up from the small entrance/exit to the fort  on the River side used for access by slaves.

View out of the canon portal




A view outside the fort looking to the river entrance and open ocean. Shows how high the walls were to repel attackers.
The condition of areas of the Fort do not show respect to the historic importance of the site. Litter, unkept walk areas are disappointing to see here. The little shop for tourists is good, the museum is informative for the lifestyle of the early peoples to the area. Still pleased I visited to grab a glimps of this piece of history.
This is the Old Port looking to the ocean. 

After our tour of the fort we embarked on a street walk through the old town.
An example of a beautifully carved doorway. I just love these designs,  so much so I ordered a plate with carving on it.
A fascinating process. Told the guy what I would like.. price... how long does it take.. can you send it to Nakuru..no problems. A deposit left, details of delivery....tell us when it is finished. Then go to the Coach terminal(Modern Coast Coaches) and find price of parcel, Kijea will Mpesa the cost plus final payment to you. This all worked out well and I have my carved Plate from a wood carving workshop Mombasa. No problem getting it through customs. 
 Walking the streets is an exercise in avoiding water, rubbish, open drains etc etc in this old port town, how could you call it 'planned'?  Not designed for cars but small ones try and negotiate these narrow ways.

Typical of our tour




There was a sign outside with sandals so I stuck my head in. This guy was happy to tell me all about the making, he was gluing the straps ready for the next stage. These are the beaded sandals, often called Maasai beaded sandals. I can see why sandals are popular with the heat, but I just hate grit and dirt under my feet. I understand why so many woman have a pedicure regularly to scrub the feet and remove calloused skin.

Our walking tour gave us an excellent idea of the architecture. The overhanging verandahs, the woodwork and carving, just a wonderful atmosphere and street-scape.

Now for a walk in the markets. This was AN experience

I was trying to be a responsible tourist and had Kijea stand so I could get a view of the market.
The lady on the left with her mouth open started yelling. I thought she was talking to the son behind Kijea. Before I knew what was happening, Kijea took the camera, told me to start walking quickly...not sure what happened but I obeyed without question.  After that our guide took the camera and snapped us walking through. 



Yes,  between Kijea and I we purchased 12 coconuts to return to Nakuru with for friends.

To relax and refresh ourselves, we found a spot called Fontanella Beer Garden and Restauant (think that is the name). Tucked in off Moi Ave near the main intersection, great music as well as drinks and food.
Heading to the coach station in light we had some time to wait as usual. I tried to stand all the time as the thought of sitting for so many hours weighed on my mind. I gave up near to our departure time and with no seats I resorted to this ...no very comfortable but good for a short time.


 Below is our trusty 'stead' that carried us Mombasa to Nakuru overnight. About a 12 hour trip. There was a refreshment stop before Nairobi, about half way. One interesting thing that happened for security at the start. We had to make sure we were in our booked seats, then a guy with a video camera moved down the aisle taking images of everyone. This was a novel way I felt recording for security and ID purposes.
 This excursion now drew to an end, how disappointing. A fabulous time with the diverse towns, places visited, modes of transport, people we met, food we ate, all experienced and will have a lasting effect on me.





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