On the Buses to Tawa, Ukambani.

Tawa is where 'my' ladies who make the kiondo bags live.  It is a rural area from Machakos, probably the nearest big town.

After attending the ANZAC Day Dawn service , we headed into Nairobi central with our trusting taxi driver Philip, to the Machakos terminal.  We found the appropriate matatu and settled in our seats.

By this stage it was still early about 8.30.

Our journey started in the early morning rush hour crush( which seems to last all day in Nairobi), winding our way through back streets until we joined the main Highway to Mombasa. After a short while we turned off and headed to Machakos. This town is known for civic pride with flower beds framing the road. 

Landscaping at the major intersection to Machakos

At Machakos we had to change buses. The area was a hive of activity and we had to check which one was to Tawa. It was a normal sized bus, seats comfortable. There are 3 touts on these. The bus is used as a passenger and goods carrier. Yes, all the extras go on top. While sitting there, a large supply of long strips of steel were being loaded they would  have been 5-6 m long. Just thrown up and secured.

Action through my scratched window.

The seats were not all occupied and we headed off after the driver rev-ed the engine a number of times to ensure all passenger were aboard. After filling with fuel, off we went, our first stop Masii.

There was a market that day further on, so seats became a premium very quickly.

Miraah being dried before taking it to market.

I did not realise why there were 3 touts on these buses until now. One took the money and wrote tickets, the other two were responsible for loading the luggage, goods,  onto the roof. They often travelled up there as well..much to my dismay. Lots of people boarded in Masii, including men with dishes inverted on each other, containing miraah. There was a billy, nanny and 2 kids, tethered near the side of the bus. Before long I realised they were going up top as well. 

Poor kids! off to market.

They were up on top unseen as they were surrounded by boxes, bags, bedding and produce. Inside the bus was beginning to fill as well, pushing people to the back and the temperature was rising. Off we headed to the next small town where there was an exchange of passengers and goods.

 Our destination was soon so Kijea had our contact talk to the tout to find out exactly our stop.
The countryside here was more open, drier and not as tightly cultivated as in the highlands. Large river gorges, and winding roads were negotiated by the driver in a skilled manner considering the top heavy load we carried.
Kijea headed to the front of the bus and I relocated to the aisle seat and allowed a mum with babe in arms to sit by the window. The bus stopped near a group of houses and down came the steel rods with a clang.
Then I had the call that this was our stop. Trying to push by the people I wished I was 20kgs lighter….'mzungu' the touts called…encouraging people to let me by. When I looked back, there were 2 guys on the roof as the bus took off, with a couple clambering in the doorway. I could not see the goats but they were still up there.

3.5hours from Nairobi and we had arrived….

Gladys, our contact lady,  led us to meet the other ladies. 

It was wonderful to meet the ladies that supplied the bags to Australia.  We talked business, discussed new designs, said our goodbyes and we started our return journey. Such a long trip for a short time but a necessary one.

Heading back to the roadway, a bus whizzed by too quickly to think that we had been noticed. Thinking we could catch the next one but the bus suddenly screamed to a halt… ' I am not running for a bus!' was my comment on a hot day, so we walked smartly and 'squashed in' after goodbyes to Gladys. This bus would take us all the way to Nairobi.

I think every muscle was sore from trying to hold on. A kind guy gave me enough seat for one 'cheek' and I was secured there by ladies standing in the aisle: get the picture? As the number of passengers thinned out in the aisle, a sudden lurch of the bus had me launched towards the person opposite who pushed me back along with the man beside pulling me back. I ended up sitting , facing the passenger opposite to steady myself.

With the thought that I planned to make another trip to the ladies, an alternative would be necessary. 

Happy I have experienced it but you need to recognise when its worthwhile to repeat, not this one!